|New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is ... Read moreabout the conditionPart Brand:||Motorcraft|
|AluminumManufacturer Part Number:||2100/2150|
This auction is for a brand new 2150, not a remanufactured/rebuilt one. I have a limited supply of these so they will only be offered when available.
THIS IS THE BEST KIT I HAVE TO OFFER... If you are unsure what you need, this kit will work. If you have an emissions test, this is the kit you MUST have! Please read entire description before placing order.
What am I offering?
I am offering the ultimate budget solution to end all headaches of the crappy-ass Carter BBD, 2bbl carb, piece of junk, garbage carbs. This 2150 swap will work on all JEEP/AMC/EAGLE 258's w/ any 2 bbl carb set up. If you have the 232, 302, 304, 360, etc... I can set one up special for you. This upgrade will improve idle, response, starting, cold starting, acceleration, and MPG. This carb will not stutter and cut out like the Carters are known for. If you can get fuel to it, it will run at very extreme angles. I can set you up a carb best for wheelin' or for use as a daily driver, OR both. If you are looking for improved gas mileage over everything else, let me know and I will jet it accordingly. You will see gains all around with this setup. I live in a very strict emissions area and have never had a problem passing both visual and tail-pipe testing. I have sold many kits to CA residents and have had very few e-test complication (They were of course with the visual aspects, not the testing) This carb will blow cleaner than a fouling Carter every time. You will have the option to retain your EGR, spark advance, charcoal canister, etc. You will also have a chance during the install to eliminate miles of vacuum lines and the onboard computer that will be unnecessary with the new set up. I receive emails regularly from my customers who passed through emissions testing with ease. If you are in a very strict emissions environment and need to keep your factory air cleaner housing, no worries. I provide instructions on how to adapt it to the new carburetor...
I have personally installed 200+ of these and have sold many, many more online just through various BBS's (I have recently surpassed the 10,000 mark on kits sold) It is easy enough for an average person to install with average tools and knowledge. My included instructions are over 300MB (and growing) and are full of step-by-step instructions complete with digital pictures. You do not have to have any mechanical experience to install one of my kits... I will email you the instructions prior to you receiving the kit so you can start the read ahead process and be ready to go…
I will assist you in any way that I can for however long it takes you to get it done. This is an afternoon project for the average Joe. AND... If you are in the area of Colorado Springs, CO, I will do one better. I will install the carb for you. Details to be worked out on a case by case basis....
A quick note on fuel economy: I am at 6500' elevation. My 1st upgrade many years back was my personal 79 J-10 truck with a fresh 258 from an 86 YJ. I went from 7-8MPG (and it couldn't get out of its own way on the highway) to an average of 12-14MPG with a lot of power. I am not promising you doubled MPG, but I receive at least 2 emails every month of my customers exceeding 20MPG after installing my kit. The highest report I have received was 23MPG on a 1990 Wrangler at sea level. Customer claimed to have a 5MPG increase. If you are already getting 16, 17, 18... miles per gallon, I wouldn't expect HUGE mpg gains (Though power and efficiency will be there) but if you are struggling at the pump, I can help. (This of course is assuming you have half way consistent compression and a decent performing ignition system)
What is included in the kit?
INCLUDED--Brand New Motorcraft 2150 carb. Configured by me. All necessary modifications will be done, air mixtures will be pre-set to a base setting and the carb will contain the correct power valve and jets for your exact setup.
INCLUDED--Proper base plate adapter. As you may know, this install requires a difficult to find (or make) adapter. They are out there, but be careful, they are not all the same. Due to the lack of a quality product available over the shelf, I have designed my own adapters and have them C&C milled locally. You will not find a better base adapter for this application.
INCLUDED--Proper fitting base gaskets for the install.
INCLUDED--Proper throttle linkage. I offer a bracket that will convert the rear pulling Motorcraft carb to a downward pulling carb. Your Carter pulls down and my bracket will utilize your existing, factory linkage (installed and ready). I also offer a direct pull (rear pull) linkage that converts your Jeep to a rear-pulling throttle. You pick which one you want, and I will build your setup accordingly. IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION YOU WILL NEED THE DOWNWARD PULLING THROTTLE LINKAGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On some late model CJ's that have power brakes (large brake booster) you will have to use the down pull linkage as well as the brake booster will be in the way. This is not an issue with YJ's. If you are unsure, go with the down pull linkage. Simple and ready to go.
INCLUDED--All hardware required to mount the new carb and adapter to your intake. (nuts/bolts/washers/specialty parts/etc)
INCLUDED--INSTRUCTIONS INSTRUCTIONS INSTRUCTIONS I have worked very hard to provide all of the best information and instructions for this install. I have compiled very good Word and PDF documents covering everything you should need. I update this almost daily I find new/better solutions or verbiage. I will include the same instructions I use AND I will include my updates and problem work-arounds that I found to be pretty common. (My home # is in there too) These instruction files are HUGE, and yes, easy to follow with step by step instructions and pictures. The instructions are written for the average Joe and when printed, are over 60 pages by themselves. They will take you through the complete process of removing the old carb. all the way through tuning the new one.
INCLUDED--Support. Nothing more to say here. I will support you in any way that I can. I learned my lessons the hard way and with that being said, I don't see any reason why anyone else should have to. I will make this as easy as possible for both of us. I will provide email support and phone support if needed. Heck, bring it to me and I will show you 1st hand. Check my feedback concerning support.
INCLUDED--Throttle return spring bracket. Pre-built and ready to install.... I just started including this due to popular request from buyers. (See, I listen to your feedback emails)
OPTIONAL--New, in the box, chrome air cleaner kit and filter. This kit is $32 off the shelf. I will include one for an additional $25. I am no longer including the 9" filter due to fitment problems on some Jeeps. Instead I will include a smaller one with more clearance AND I will throw in a free FRAM crank case breather. You will get both filters for $25. Your factory air cleaner will NOT fit the new carb without modification. I also include instructions on how to modify the factory air cleaner setup to fit if you should so desire to keep it.
OPTIONAL--As stated above, I will give you the choice between a downward pulling throttle linkage, or a rear-pull, direct linkage. You choose. No additional fee. The downward-pulling linkage consists of a lever added onto the MC2100 converting it from a rear pull carburetor, to a downward pulling carburetor that will use your existing throttle linkage setup. The rear-pull bracket allows a direct cable connection to the carb. This will include a bolt on bracket and will allow you to eliminate even more "stuff" under the hood. Both are straight forward installs and are covered in the instructions. If you have an automatic transmission you MUST have the down pull linkage........ Manual transmissions can use either one. NOTE: 1983-1986 CJ's with power brakes (Large brake booster) must also use the down pull linkage. The brake booster is too large and will be in the way of the rear pulling linkage.
OPTIONAL--2 Choke options. (Well, actually 3) Again, this is a personal preference to most people. The Motorcraft 2100 carburetor and the Carter BBD share a VERY similar choke housing. To retain your Carter's original electric choke, you only need to remove it from the Carter, reverse the internal temperature coil, and screw it into the Motorcraft carb. I will include all mounting hardware to do so. Every setup is a little different, but making this swap requires no real skill. If you need an electric choke, I will include one for $22. Just add it to the total cost or to the shipping and slip me a note. It will be there, and it will be pre-installed. If you prefer a manual choke conversion, add $15 to the total amount and I will include a new manual choke kit with cable and I will modify the carburetor for you. You will just need to pick the one you are comfortable with.
OPTIONAL--TFI distributor upgrade. Some call it the Juice Box, this is everything you need for the distributor swap. Cap, adapter, rotor, plug wires, coil, wire, instructions and mounting hadware. This is a VERY simple upgrade and has been proven on and off-road to be one of the best. It is an excellent mate for your new carb and will deliver a great amount of reliable spark ($90).
OPTIONAL- 1bbl to 2bbl base adapter. Even if you have a 1bbl intake manifold, I can build a great kit for you. This is an additional adapter and will adapt the 2bbl carburetor to your 1bbl intake. Very simple to do and everything will be there if needed. ($30)
What I don't provide:
--Common sense. 'nuf said. I will help you in any way that I can. If you decide to pull out the blow torch and duct-tape after a 12 pack, I can't and won't hold myself responsible. (But I'll still help you fix it when you sober up a bit...)
Every install is different to some degree. I provide the most basic, simple, complete kit as I can. I include a basic modified throttle linkage that might need to be lengthened or shortened a bit to fit your needs. All Jeeps are different. ESPECIALLY once someone (not you of course) has decided that they were smarter than all of the million dollar/year techs that designed the vacuum/emissions systems in the 1st place and capped "stuff" off and randomly removed components. I will teach you what needs to be there and what doesn't. I will explain the difference between ported vac and manifold vac and help you determine where your vacuum and vapor canister lines need to go. I will provide the info for the ever popular "NUTTER" bypass or "IGNITO" bypass to eliminate your computer feedback to/from the Carter. Please remember that the 2100 is a balls-out manual carb. No computer required for operation.
Just a side note, FORD produced this GREAT carb for over 25 years with very little change. They put it on EVERYTHING, big or small, fast or slow. AMC adopted a larger version of the 2100 for their V-8's.... You can't beat it.
Any questions, please ask.
Q: I have 1976 jeep Cherokee with 258 and 1 barrel carb, would I have to change my intake? A: You can either purchase a used intake/exhaust manifold OR a 1bbl to 2bbl adapter plate. I sell the adapter plate for $30 and they will be set and ready for install. Please make sure you have a 1bbl intake before ordering the 1bbl-2bbl adapter! If your current carburetor had 4 mounting studs to the intake manifold, you have a 2 barrel intake/carb. If there are only 2 mounting studs, you have a 1 barrel intale/carb.
Q: will this carb fit 1990 YJ wrangler with a 4.2? A: Yes it will fit a 90. (See pictures) There are a couple more steps for the 84-90 rigs, but I include all of the instructions and they are VERY easy to follow
Q: Hey, I have a 89 258 already converted from the carter to a Webber but the Webber seems to be garbage as it has been fine tuned and still running very rich. As being my question is, is the conversion process easier for me? I am a MA resident any one you sell in MA pass emissions? I am interested just need to find out some definite answers as I could spend a few more dollars and get a brand new Weber... what's your view point? Thanks a lot... A: MA emissions will not be a problem. I have sold hundreds/thousands of kits to replace the Webbers. The Webbers are great carbs, but are difficult to tune. The MC 2100 is VERY easy to tune even for a non-mechanical person. Even changing the jets is a 3 minute job with 1 screw driver. I pass strict CO emissions and have sold kits all over the country/world for almost every emissions tested environment known.
Q: I like the sounds of your solution to my Carter Crap.. I have a 1977 CJ7, automatic, with power brakes.... I was originally going to go with an Offy intake and Holley, but was I was told I wouldn't have enough clearance because of the brake booster pushes the master cylinder out to far....I saw in one of your pictures (your j10) that it has a booster. Also, what does your linkage include? Thanks A: Yes, this kit will clear the brake booster. The linkage includes everything needed to install it. I can also set it up to convert your throttle to a rear pulling linkage and you will have a direct connection to the throttle (just like a Mustang) You choose and I will set it up. Both are easy to install.
NOTE 1: I will still build custom setups if you want a strictly off road application or if you have special needs. If you are watching this item, and it sells and I do not have another one listed, send me an email and I will notify you when I list more. Sometimes, I have 3 or 4 ready at a time, sometimes I have 1. SOMETIMES even when I have 3, I sell them all in a 6 hour period. I will never stop building these kits, but sometimes I have a 5-day lag in re-listing them.
NOTE 2: This kit is a HUGE improvement over the stock Carter setup. In my experience, this is also an improvement over the Webber conversion. I have replaced many Webbers with my kits and have had very satisfied customers. I have also replaced a few aftermarket fuel injection setups for frustrated owners. The ease of tuning this carb is worth the swap alone. I get asked a lot of emission testing/legality questions on this conversion, and here is my answer: I live in a very strict emissions tested region. I have passed 4 personal Jeeps through the E-test and passed both a visual inspection and the blow test. We are tested at idle and at 3000 RPM. The 2100 passed where the carter failed. I don't know emission laws for everyone, but I can say that I have sold conversion kits to almost every region in this country including over 100 to California, and haven't heard of anyone being forced to remove their setup. The only snags in CA are the visual which can “usually” be avoided by retaining the factory air cleaner setup to hide the new carb. A side note to that would be that I don't guarantee this to be a one stop shop, cure-all, fix everything wrong with your rig purchase. It will be a great improvement, but if you have other electrical or mechanical problems, you need to fix those too. I will include information on MANY other simple upgrades including the ever popular HEI distributor upgrade. I highly recommend this upgrade as a companion to the carburetor conversion. They compliment one another very well.
key word list: jeep carb carburetor MC Motor Craft 4.2 256 I-6 I6 performance scout autolite 2100 2150 2 barrel 2bbl 2bl 2V C.A.R.B. off road off-road offroad rock crawler rock-crawler custom manual standard automatic conversion webber weber red line redline pacer eagle sx/4 holey holley tbi hei tfi gremlin
NOTE 3: There are a couple other sellers (all prior customers of mine) listing very similar kits. With these kits, you will not receive the same adapter, hardware, quality of carburetor or support. These carbs will not be properly jetted and tuned for your altitude/application and will not have the same modifications that I provide. Check my Seller Feedback!!!!!!!!!